The scenery changes as you leave Eymoutiers and climb uphill
into la Correze. It changes from rolling hills, fields and little woods into
dark forests, little meadows and soaring buzzards. Despite the fact they are
both in the Limousin they could be in completely different ends of the country.
The only clue to the fact that they are in the same Region is the ever present
Limousin cow, a sort of tidier version of its Scottish highland cousin.
Tomorrow, when we cross the departmental boarder we will be
doing it as full time French residents. It will be the second time we’ve done
it this week. Last week we set off from Portsmouth (An SO postcode but everyone
in Hampshire knows that Locks Heath is in Portsmouth really!) with a tail lift van packed to the rafters with
all our worldly possessions. Overnight on the cheap and cheerful LD lines ferry
and seven hour drive across what feels like the entire length of France, but in
reality only half of it, and we arrived in Bugeat. Bugeat is our closest town
and despite the fact it is only the size of a small Cotswold village has a
butchers, bakers (No candlestick makers) a newsagent, a small supermarket, a
vet, a doctors, a school and college, 3 restaurants, 3 garages and a train
station. We stayed overnight in a B&B ran by some fellow ex-pats. Great
place with a friendly dog and even friendlier owners. Within 2 hours of staying
there we were given an old wood fuelled oven to install at chez Powell and an
introduction to Correze generosity. This sort of thing happens all the time apparently,
one story tells of a couple who took their aged Labrador to the vet for its
final visit and came away with a stay Alsatian cross as compensation! The next
day involved signing the deeds, translated for us with another expat from the
town. By 6.30pm we were unpacked and settled into our electric-less, waterless
house that is now, home.
A winter where temperatures reached -27oC led to
pipes freezing and bursting all over the region so to find two in a house where
no one has lived for two years wasn’t really a surprise, but a broken meter
demonstrated how damaging these low temperatures can be. It did give us an
opportunity to experience a French DIY store which was all we hoped it would
be. Eyed with suspicion as soon as we spoke English to one another and it took
nearly half an hour for the shop worker to collect the lawnmower from the back
that we decided to get at the same time. However this was all done with a
friendliness seldom seen in the English counterparts. Whilst we waited everyone
who walked past us nodded and said “Bonjour” and we ended up with some free
copper pipe to fix our burst pipes because it was the last one left and had a
very slight bend in it.
So, tomorrow we leave for France for the final time. The new
old car (a second hand r reg Land Rover Discovery with rusty wheel arches and a
leaky sunroof) is packed with what is left of our stuff, clothes, some food, a
couple of board games and 8 tomato plants. The boy is in bed and the dogs wish
they were. All ready for the final long drive through the ever changing scenery
of France. The new life starts here. The house won’t have electrics until next
week so we will be effectively camping in our own home. We have to mow the lawn
because vipers are a real danger in the region and put up a fence because our
stupid dog will simply run off into the forests if we don’t. I thought I would
be nervous or having regrets but I am neither. The move can’t come soon enough
and, other than friends and relatives (some of them!) I can’t think of anything
I will miss about England. I’ve even got a rugby team to play for, although the
picture in the bar in Bugeat makes them look very young and fit so back to
second team rugby I go after reliving the first team dream in Hampshire for
four months. I am looking forward to producing my own food, hearing nothing but
animals for hours on end, owning a house outright with no mortgage at 32,
sending my son to an education system where excellence is encouraged and
mediocrity and poor behaviour are treated with contempt and generally living a
more meaningful life. It will be a while until there is another blog as there
is no telephone or internet currently at the house so until it’s connected. A
bientot.
Yes, I thought it was a woodburning oven in a recent photo. The pipe was a bit of a giveaway. And now a Land Rover? Very Bloody Useful Things, those two. Neither of which I currently have. (Must manifest a stove before next Winter - have you seen the price of gas now?)
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